1. General Information
    1970 Mach 1 Garage Saved
    Mustang Mach 1
    Factory yellow #3470-A, w/ black hood stripe
    Original A Plan car (Employee Special Order) Mach 1, black hood stripe, FMX automatic, raised white letter tires, shaker hood scoop, sport slats, sport deck rear seat, PDB, P/S, Selectaire A/C, AM/FM stereo, tinted glass, argent wheels & tach, no smog

    According to the Marti Report, this car was born on July 21,1970. This Mach 1 Mustang was made very late in the production line. The unique part of this Mustang is that it was ordered by a Ford employee that was built without smog gear. It was built at the San Jose, CA plant and shipped to La Habra, CA with no smog gear even though back then it was required by CA law that any vehicle shipped inside CA had to have this equipment. Mine never had it installed. From there, the car bounced around in WA and ID before ending up in Eugene, OR. The guy in Eugene who sold the car to Mark actually lives 2 blocks away from me and the guy I bought the car from (Mark), lives 6 blocks away. Mark bought the car in May of 1990 and drove it for 3 months before blowing the head gasket and parking it in his garage, on blocks, until I bought it for $5000 and brought it home on April 9, 2010 (20 years). When I brought the car home, the heads, intake and carb were in the trunk and the top end parts (hoses, bolts, belts, etc.) were in the back seat. I spent the next week preparing the engine and trans for removal. After that, I spent over 3 months preparing the car for engine and trans reinstall. They were getting rebuilt while I replaced the gas tank and lines, all brakes including wheel cylinders, drums, master cylinder, calipers, rotors, hardware and all brake lines. I cleaned the engine bay, underneath where the trans goes, the rear end and painted the rear end. I undercoated part of the engine bay, the whole tunnel and under the seats. The whole time I was working under the car, I was looking for rust, but the only bad spot was under the battery tray. I had Robert from Material Fabrication come over to my house and cut out the bad spot, weld in the new apron piece and grind down the welds. I painted the top and bottom of the new piece, undercoated underneath, and you can't even tell it had been replaced. The engine and trans was installed on July 13, 2010, but we then spent the next 2 months putting everything together before starting the car for the first time in 20 years. It was a long process as many parts were missing and I ended up getting pics from eBayers that were selling similar cars and sending me closeups of their engine bays. The car was started for the first time between 9/23/10 and 10/1/10. I heard what I thought was rust hitting the garage door and it turned out that it was cat food coming out the tail pipe. I drove the car home on Oct. 5, 2010 and washed it for the first time and the water still beaded up on it from when the car was last waxed 20 years ago. I've been fixing and adding goodies to it since March of this year and hope to have it painted by the end of summer. I want to do it sooner, but don't have the money saved up yet.


    No mods at this time. I will post new pics of the car when the body and paint are done. I'm adding a front spoiler, but keeping the rest of the car original. This car was originally bright yellow, but over the years was painted burgandy and then red. My next step in the rebuild/ restoration is to do the bodywork and then paint the car the original color of bright yellow with the black hood stripe.

    5-20-11 I now have new Magnum 500 wheels and BF Goodrich tires on the car and it improved the feel and look immensely. The front has (14x7) wheels and (235/60-14) tires. The rear has (15x7) wheels and (245/60-15) tires all courtesy of America's Tire Co. The total package, with mustang center caps, stems and lug nuts, cost me $1125.00

    2-6-12 The 351C 4bbl engine and FMX transmission has been rebuilt. The engine looks original on the outside, but several mods have been done. The only original parts on the engine are: crank (reground), piston rods and heads. The original block, which I still have, had a 4 inch crack next to the water pump. The donor block was then tanked, balanced, bored .40 over and honed. All other internal parts were replaced: cam (standard), bearings, seals and new aluminum pistons. The long block was treated with a new Edelbrock intake and 4bbl carb and new aluminum Ford Racing valve covers. I also upgraded the the ignition with a Pertronix module and Pertronix coil. I added a new aluminum 3-row radiator. Everything else in the engine compartment was kept original. When I got the car, it had full-size headers on it, so I sand-blasted and repainted them, and reinstalled them. That part was not fun as there is only about 2 inches of clearance on each side of the engine bay for bolt tightening (not fun).

    5-16-12 I finished replacing the rear suspension and I'm replacing the front suspension now. These pics show the car with new parts installed and will upload new pics when it is done. You can see the new correct chrome tips and new Magnaflow 2 1/2 inch dual exhaust installed in the first 2 pics.

    The final part of the rebuild/ restoration will be in the interior. I'm keeping the interior stock with correct replacement parts as needed. I have an original am/fm stereo radio (correct for this car) that will be cleaned and reinstalled, but I will hide a port for my ipod in the car and upgrade the speakers. This car has the original rim blow steering wheel that works fine.

    New aluminum Edelbrock intake and 4bbl carb. New aluminum Ford Racing valve covers and breather cap. New Pertronix igntion and coil. New aluminum 3-row radiator. New chrome oil pan.

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